BlackNotBlack.com

First Restaurant, First Night

A Garota d’Ipanema.

Yes, that place. A great terrace restaurant known all over the planet as the birthplace of bossa nova. Actually, bossa nova existed before Jobim composed 'The Girl from Ipanema', but the restaurant changed its name to that of the song eventually. It's in all the travel books, so you should know the history and address already. No, it is not a cheesy theme restaurant with the same song playing over and over again. It ain't Brazilian Hooters either. It actually has character and good food. Be patient when you get there, because they will be busy. No tables available in the restaurant? No problem, they bust out some tables on the sidewalk for you.

Wish to understand the concept of aperitif? Order a round of caipirinhas, and you will learn how to take your time sipping a cocktail before dinner. If you go on Saturday, order feijoada, the national dining experience of Brazil. Every place serves feijoada on Saturday. Yes, I believe this is a requirement during your trip in Rio. But we did not visit A Garota d'Ipanema on a Saturday. I think it was a Thursday, and I recognize something else on the menu.

I recommend the churrasco mixto for the whole table. It's basically an assortment of meat on a hot grill. Ask the waiter for some ensalada mixta, y'know, mixed salad for all to share with the grilled meat. Take your time, your food will not get cold, and you can keep ordering caipirinhas and cervejas as long as you please. You came to Rio, so you do not need to hurry up and relax. You did that back home already, trying to decide what to pack and how early to get to the airport.

They do not bring the check until requested. Tips are usually included, as I recall, around ten per cent. Never hesitate to ask, or round up. We never had a problem with service, since we knew to be patient. I delivered my 'portu-ñol' and asked for recommendations everywhere we went.

After dinner, you might need a walk on the beach to settle everything down. Take a stroll down Avenida Atlantica, na praia d'Copacabana. Check out the flea market/bazaar down the middle of the avenue, or simply kick back with a beer or five at one of the many baizhirinhas on the beach. If you think you arrived at the bazaar/boardwalk too late because you don't see many people, just wait. The bazaar does not close, the baizhirinhas do not close, and the restaurants and bars stay open late. The doors to the club did not open until midnight, as I recall, and we left around seven in the morning. Or was it eight, nine?

posted by Gabacho Chingón @ 8:12 AM