Tuesday, March 02, 2010

The Ultimate Bar Crawl, Part 2

This will be a short one. Wandered into this joint just outside the old quarter on the Boulevard called Dickens. Without putting too fine a point on it, it should have been called Dicken' You, because the midget-sized, shit-vintage airplane wines were twelve euros and the Heineken bottles were six. To put it in perspective, you can get a beer for two euros almost anywhere in town. But the idea with Dicken' You wasn't that the customer would receive value for his/her euro, but that the riff-raff would be kept out so that wealth could mix with wealth.

I've been to so many of these places, from St. Barth to St. Petersburg, and I can spot them immediately. And they can spot me, too, because never once have I been treated respectfully in such places. But even for those designated as worthy, the service really isn't that special, and the drinks aren't any better than in other bars. The value in these places derives from the fact that anyone who resides for more than a couple of obscenely overpriced rounds has money—and that means they can feel safe with each other. At least in theory.

Sounds strange, perhaps, but there's an entire worldwide bar/club culture based upon helping rich meet rich without risking their entire fortunes. It's what country clubs, for instance, are about. How do I know this? That's another story. But I can tell you from my personal observations that for the rich there's no love deep enough, no lust powerful enough, to override their fear of losing their money. Dicken' You is one of the places where they don't have to worry about it so much. But in any case, you should give the joint a pass, because it's the least interesting bar in San Sebastián anyway.

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Saturday, February 27, 2010

The Ultimate Bar Crawl, Part 1

I may have mentioned before that Donostia-San Sebastián has, according to various travel guides, the highest density of bars in the world. For no other reason than that I have the time, I've decided to catalog these places. My goal is visit every bar in town. It may not be possible, sort of like counting to a million, but nobody can say that I've ever backed down from a bar-related challenge. Last night I met some friends at the Paulaner München cervecería, so I'll start with that one.

The Paulaner may be the only German-themed bar in town. It's in the Parte Vieja or Old Part on Calle San Vicente, opposite the gothic Iglesia San Vicente, which you see in the shot below. The owner of this place is one of those big, jolly Basques who could moonlight as Santa Claus, if they had that myth here. He called the girls I was with "guapas," which means he's probably thinking about them even now. His bar is obviously named for the German beer, and I guess if they gave me all the branded gear in my bar I'd name it after them too.

The Paulaner is moderately local—the times I've been there my friends and I seemed to be the only tourists, but it isn't an intimidating place by any means, like many locals-frequented places can be. There's music, but not very loud music, a tray of snacks, but no bona fide pintxos, and only one television, which means this is a place where you converse. The clientele are late-twenties and up, normally. In the winter it's rarely crowded, but during the summer they set up their outdoor tables and with that view of the church it suddenly becomes one of the better outdoor spots in town, a good place to meet up early before heading out into the night. I rate it as take-a-pass during the off-season, and must-visit during the summer. Here's their website.

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